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Devon and Dartmoor

This is the only county in Britain with an interrupted coastline on two different stretches of water, the Bristol Channel to the north, and the English Channel to the south. The coastline, and landscape, varies immensely, with long sandy beaches, rugged cliffs, muddy estuaries and small ports littering the coast, and the interior being occupied by the bleak, but beautiful, wilderness of Dartmoor in the south and a part of Exmoor in the north. In addition there are the delights of the English Riviera, and the sailing centres of the Teign, Dart, and Kingsbridge estuaries, with Totnes, Dartmouth and Salcombe being the most popular resorts for those who like messing about on the water, and yet the north coast is a draw for surfers. A note of warning to those not familiar with tidal boating, if you rent a boat and head up-river remember that the tide goes out, and you can end up stranded on a mud bank. This is fine if you have moored up to a pub and enjoying a good lunch, but not so clever if you are trying to get back to return the boat to the yard or heading home to your rental cottage. The largest of these is the River Dart which reaches deep into south Devon and has a myriad of tributaries which lead to secluded villages, well protected from the outside world and normally reached by land along narrow winding lanes. This has preserved the character of the architecture, the local atmosphere, and the natural charm of the area.

Quite a lot of the little cottages in the South Hams district tend to have a pub situated next, or very close to, the village church and so represent the hub of the community; so find the church and you will doubtless find a drink within a few yards. The largest town on this estuary is Totnes, founded in the 12th century, finally gaining much of its wealth trading cloth with the French in return for wine. There is a substantial marina, and, for those with a big car, an excellent bathroom shop. The centre of the town has plenty of heritage sites, including the house of a merchant who made a fortune from pilchards. At the mouth of the river is Dartmouth with its world famous Royal Naval College perched on the shore and still retains a strong connection with the sea. Every year cruise and tall ships stop here, and this year is no exception with the star of the Hornblower series due to visit this summer offering short trips out to sea giving you a taste of 18th century life in the navy. The town has various other non-nautical attractions throughout the year with food and walking festivals happening on a regular basis.

The English Riviera stretches north up the coast from Dartmouth and comprises the three towns of Brixham, Paignton, and Torquay that skirt Tor Bay. Brixham, at the southern end, is an old fishing town and the harbour is at its heart. Always associated with the sea, this town was once a haven for smugglers and all sorts of skulduggery. Narrows alleys lead away from the quay and the old part of town has changed little over the years, and the fishing boats still land their catch on a daily basis, so you can expect the seafood to be of the freshest. Around the town there are lovely cliff walks, small coves and old smugglers caves to explore. The town with the most beaches is Paignton and boasts nine which stretch for over several miles around the bay and you can view most of them from the comfort of the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway. This runs a regular service during the summer and on special occasions during the year and is a spectacular way to see this part of the county. The town is at the heart of the tourist trade and has plenty to offer for all ages, with a cinema, zoo, pier, theatre numerous hotels and self-catering accommodation and, in addition, the seafront is softly lit up at night for romantic late night strolls. On the edge of the town are the offices of the town council, in Oldway Mansion, the former home of Isaac Singer, the American founder of the Singer Sewing Machine Company. Forced to leave his home country owing to his scandalous private life, this self-made multi-millionaire settled down here and the result of some of his fortune is now enjoyed by the good burghers of Paignton, and with its marble hall and staircase, frescoes, mirrored ballroom etc. is well worth a visit. Mr Singer was some man as he fathered upwards of twenty-two children by at least four different women. No wonder he had to vacate New York. The title of 'Queen of the Riviera' falls to Torquay, given to the town by its Victorian visitors. The town was originally a small fishing port, similar to Brixham, and a home to smugglers, but was expanded when tourism began flourishing and money started to come in with Italianate villas springing up overlooking the Bay, many of them now converted from private houses into small hotels, or available to rent. The town was the birthplace of Agatha Christie and a trail has been created for the thousands of fans who flock to the area to visit her old house, and see many of the sights that feature in her detective novels. Inland, and on the river Teign is the market town of Newton Abbot which sprang into life with the arrival of the railway in 1846 and since then it has been the hub of the local area. An attractive, mainly Victorian, town with weekly markets selling local produce, Newton Abbot also has a National Hunt racecourse that has regular meetings. Amongst other local attractions to feed the visitor is a hedgehog hospital! Not that you get to eat them, you understand. To the west, and on the edge of Dartmoor, is Buckfastleigh and the famous Buckfast Abbey, home to Scotland's second most popular alcoholic drink. The tonic wine that the monks produce is potent enough to have caused more than one M.P. to have called for their excommunication but it is popular with all sorts all around the world. Do not drive after a glass of this, or if you do then pray for some divine intervention. The monastery is the only one in the U.K. that is open to the public and the Benedictine monks are happy to show visitors around.

Drifting south, and west, along the edge of Dartmoor, the next town you will encounter is Ivybridge. As you will discover there is little or no access to the moor by car from this side, only on foot, but you can rent a quiet and isolated cottage that will help. Standing on the river Erme the town benefited from being the only crossing of the river and so all traffic between Exeter and Plymouth had to pass through it. This encouraged the establishment of a few coaching Inns and the river provided the power to keep several woollen mills in operation, and bargains are still to be had just outside the town. This part of south Devon gained its wealth from wool production and some of the small towns became quite rich, however with the main road moving north the town of Modbury has remained virtually unchanged over the last two hundred years, and this charming market town is a jewel just off the main road. With a wealth of Georgian and agricultural architecture, this is a genteel stopover and is Europe's first plastic-bag free town cementing its environmental credentials. The town has an annual May Fair, a weekly market and is a convenient base to explore the local wildfowl sanctuaries and the western side of the South Devon Heritage Coast. The southern tip of Devon centres around the Kingsbridge Estuary, and most importantly the sailing hub of Salcombe. A sheltered anchorage, with sheltered beaches at the estuary entrance this town is very popular with sailors of all ages, especially those wanting to make a dash across the Channel to France. The town has a very limited access for cars as the streets are narrow so it is suggested that you leave your vehicle at one of the municipal car-parks and take a shuttle-bus into the centre and enjoy the peace and quiet of your rented property. Not only a haven for yachtsmen Salcombe is also one for the artistic community, with a host of galleries and craft shops littering the old town, and with bars and restaurants overlooking the water this is an idyllic place to relax for a while. Kingsbridge itself is the local administrative centre, and being at the head of the estuary tends to dry-out at low tide. A more modern town in some respects and where most of the locals do their shopping. Although it has modern amenities on its fringes the centre has familiar narrow lanes and cobbled streets. Again it has a market but where it differs from other towns they sell different things on different days of the week.

The largest place in west Devon is the city of Plymouth, at the mouth of the river Tamar, famous as the place from which The Pilgrim Fathers embarked for the New World, and Sir Francis Drake enjoyed a game of bowls or two. The city is still heavily involved in naval affairs with its Royal Naval Dockyard, training establishments, and ships and submarines moored in the harbour. So, as you can imagine, quite a few sights have a nautical theme, or name, or both. The centre of the city is much like any other commercial hub in England, but as befits a holiday resort there are numerous attractions for all ages from the National Marine Aquarium Centre to ancient Castles and places of interest, and seeing as you are so far from Scotland why not visit a distillery, and Plymouth Gin Distillery is the oldest working one in England and offers tours around the facilities. North of Plymouth, and just off the road to Tavistock, is Buckland Abbey, the former home of Sir Francis Drake and nearly the end of the Drake trail, you may be pleased to hear. The former monastery was converted in the mid-1500s, and came into Drake's possession soon afterwards. Needless to say most of the exhibits centre on the old sea dog.

And so onwards north to Tavistock on the western shore of Dartmoor and Drake was born just outside the town. There, finished. This is the western gateway to the wilderness of Dartmoor and in fact there is only one east-west road which will take you all the way to Exeter. The town itself is nowhere near as quaint as those in South Devon as it was founded on the back of the tin, lead, copper and silver mining industries of east Cornwall and west Devon and as it was through Tavistock that most of this metal passed, and was assayed, a certain staidness has clung to the place. Notwithstanding this, the town has a certain charm, and does offer excellent facilities for walkers, most notably several excellent Doctors, and a handful of Dentists, oh, and some charming cottages up for rent in the vicinity.

Between here and Okehampton you will be hard pushed to find more than a handful of hamlets, but some stunning scenery. And as you pass the ruined mine head of Wheal Betsy, consider that this was once one of the most profitable, modern and philanthropic mines in the world, and all due to the presence of water power. Anyway, this is a good place to stop for walkers, riders, and cyclists, and has an excellent pub or two. On the northern edge of the National Park is Okehampton, a great centre for walkers and the start of the annual Ten Tors race. This is a two day 'yomp' across the moor for the young, the oldest participant allowed is only twenty, and takes place over three different courses, dependent on age. The longest route takes you over 55kms and you have to carry all your supplies and equipment, so there is no nipping into the Prison for a cosy night with the warders. The Army have a substantial training camp just outside the town on the moor and look after the 2400 teenagers who try this event every year. The town is basically grey, being made of the local granite, and has most of the local amenities you would expect in a small town anywhere else in England. There is a large ruined Norman Castle, a museum of Dartmoor Heritage, and a couple of shops that will kit out the novice or experienced walker. A range of holiday cottages, pubs, restaurants, and cafes completes the picture. To the north the green and rolling hills and pretty cottages in north Devon, to the south, the bleak and granite-strewn moor land. Now this is not to say that there is nothing to do on Dartmoor as you can try walking from one side to the other, or go by pony. Challenge the elements with your camping prowess, but be prepared the weather can change here just as quickly as it can in the Scottish Highlands. You can visit Neolithic cairns and stone circles, secluded country houses, castles and nature reserves; see hidden waterfalls, or even try and find the famous Prison. This is the only wilderness in England so if you bump into anyone else you will be unlucky.

North of Dartmoor is a different story altogether as the landscape is much more pastoral, as evidenced by the number of small markets held regularly in the small towns that dot the countryside. The largest town, and centre of commerce, is Barnstable, over 1000 years old and the oldest Borough in England. It boasts a modern shopping centre alongside the traditional old market, including Butchers Row, a row of open-fronted shops selling local produce. The centre of town is pedestrianised and is wheel-chair friendly, with drop-down kerbs for ease of access. You can also rent motorised wheelchairs from the Bus Station. Barnstable is well served with Guest houses, B&Bs, and Hotels, and being the local hub is ideally suited to tour the locality. So, situated near the mouth of the River Taw, you are only a few miles from the nature reserve of Braunton Burrows and the 3 mile long Saunton Sands. The village of Braunton, it claims to be the largest village in Britain, is a confusion of narrow lanes with cob-walled cottages, attractive pubs and restaurants, including a Fish and Chip shop that has frequently been voted the best in the South-west, and several Surf shops. The beaches to the north and south of Buggy point are the best in north Devon and Braunton is where to get your wet-suits and boards to try your hand at the waves in Morte Bay, Croyde Bay, and Saunton Sands. More unusual, and possibly unique, are the Tunnels Beaches at Ilfracombe on the north coast. These hand-cut tunnels were constructed in the 19th century to allow Victorian visitors to visit numerous secluded sandy coves. Ilfracombe has been a popular resort since the 1830s when the town started to receive its first influx of tourists and there are numerous large Victorian villas that have been converted into Guest houses and Hotels. With its central harbour and sea-front bars, hemmed in by cliffs, the town has a continental feel allied to Victorian gentility. Ilfracombe is not only the start of the Coast to Coast cycle route, which will take you down to Plymouth, but also the start of the Heritage Coast Walk. From the harbour the M.S. Oldenburg will take you out to Lundy Island and its Marine Nature Reserve. The island is only 3.5 miles long but has its own species of plant, the Lundy cabbage, and is home to various species of marine birds including Puffins, Guillemots, and the Manx shearwater amongst others. After spending a day on the island it is possible to return instead to Bideford, known as 'The Little White Town'. This is a working fishing port, market town and a popular tourist destination, and also the town that held the last hangings for witchcraft, in 1682, when three local women were publically The usual collection of shops selling local produce rub shoulders with those offering local arts and crafts, and there are plenty of pubs, clubs, and bars catering to visitors of all ages. It was the home to the writer Charles Kingsley for many years, and it was here that he wrote his novel Westward Ho!, and there are lots of reminders of his stay.

The village of Westward Ho! itself is a couple of miles away on the coast and was named after the book, not the other way around. Another popular resort village this one however has an old-fashioned promenade with all the usual stalls to keep the children happy. Inland of the village are 1000 acres of the Northam Burrows Country Park, common land which is a lovely nature reserve, and you will also find the oldest Golf Club in England here. The long beach is good for surfing so there are plenty of activities for all ages and appetites and accommodation to suit all pockets. Following the coast along Bideford Bay you come to Clovelly a little village almost caught in a time-warp. Perched on cliffs 400ft above the quay the streets are fairly precipitous, and goods and people were carried to the top by donkeys, with the street of Up Along one of the most recognised and photographed. Needless to say this is a car-free village and extremely popular, with B&Bs and Guest houses at a premium, but there are plenty of pups and cafes to refresh the day visitor. The only way to continue west from here to Hartland Point is on foot and this is an energetic, but thrilling, cliff-top walk with marvellous views north to Lundy. Inland from the point you will find Hartland Abbey and its gardens, a 12th century Augustinian Abbey that has been occupied since 1540 by the same family so you will find paintings and artifacts gathered over the last 550 years, and the architecture includes some bits of the old Abbey, as well as Queen Anne, Georgian, Victorian Gothic, etc. etc.. The gardens, in places, have remained unchanged since the monks were evicted.

The coastal path turns south from the point and very soon you will be in Cornwall, however all is not lost as there are other delights to charm you in North Devon. Returning to Ilfracombe you are only a short distance from Exmoor Forest and National Park. The village and harbour of Combe Martin is at the north-east corner of the Park, and was once a bustling port exporting silver, flax, and more unusually, strawberries. The main street is over 2 miles long, claiming to be the longest in England, and has all the outlets usually found in a sea-side holiday venue, with a variety of self-catering cottages nearby. Until 2008 there was an annual wheelbarrow race along the street with participants required to have a pint of beer in each of the pubs on the street, but Health and Safety have stepped in and so replaced it with a sober version. There is one particularly unusual building in the village, the Pack O' Cards Inn, a hostelry won on the turn of a card with the winner celebrating his good fortune by converting the existing building into this souvenir of his good fortune. The building has 4 floors, 13 rooms and fireplaces, and before the advent of the window tax, had 52 windows. On the coast to the east are the Hangman Hills which rise to a height of over 1000ft and run to the sea, so for those with a head for heights a trip to the Great Hangman, a cliff with a drop of 820ft, is a must. Devon only stretches into the west and south-westerly margins of the Park but this will hopefully give you a taste of the whole. Similar to Dartmoor in the south, this is an area of bleak moorland, scarcely populated, with its own breed of ponies. Only the coast has been continuously inhabited over the last 1000 years, although grazing rights on the moor have been leased during this time.

The largest Devonian village is Lynmouth at the bottom of the gorge at the confluence of two rivers, and its twin Lynton 400ft above, and reached from below by a cliff railway. This is doubtless why the Victorians referred to it as Little Switzerland. Lynmouth is very busy during the summer months and although there are lots of B&Bs, Guest houses, Hotels, and camping grounds, the area can get a little bit busy with walkers, surfers, pony-trekkers, and just plain holiday-makers all rubbing shoulders. Not so in Victorian times when visitors included Thomas Gainsborough ['the most delightful place for a landscape painter this country can boast'], R.D.Blackmore ['Lorna Doune' is set on Exmoor], and Shelley who brought his new bride, Mary, to Lynmouth for their Honeymoon. The harbour used to land vast quantities of herrings but the shoals have moved elsewhere and it is now a safe haven for yachtsmen on this rugged section of coast. Skirting the edge of Exmoor to the south the next opportunity to use as a base for exploring the moor is South Molton, and at last a town which is reasonably flat! The town was a major centre for the wool trade, collected from the surrounding area and then taken north to Barnstable, and the wealth from this trade can be seen in the architecture as much of the area around the town square has remained totally unchanged. Situated in the middle of this pastoral area the town sells a large variety of local produce both in its traditional shops and at the weekly Thursday Market. The largest honey farm in the World is situated here and has an excellent visitor centre where you can see the bees at work, don't worry they are behind glass, and have a go at extracting the stuff. As the only town of any size in the area it is no surprise that there are almost 100 Hotels, Guest houses, B&Bs, and self catering cottages where you can stay either in the town itself or in one of the surrounding villages. In the rolling countryside to the north of the town you can find the largest Palladian house in Devon, Castle Hill, a home to members of the Fortescue family for 16 generations. The present building was finished in 1740, and although it was burnt down in 1932, remains very much as it was then. This is very much a working estate but the extensive gardens are open to the public and are punctuated with numerous paths taking you to a variety of Follies, built by successive generations of the family, culminating at a large fake castle on top of a hill which gives panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The centre of the county is a wealth of narrow lanes and tiny hamlets, charming cottages, old churches, and a wealth of history. This is farming country and the dairy cattle are famous the world over, especially as they produce the milk that makes the cream that goes into a Devon Cream Tea.